I’ve always supported Chefs who can understand global techniques and ingredients and somehow unselfconsciously blend them into a delicious culturally neutral dish. As a Eurasian with gifted cooks for parents, I grew up with this kind of concept. It is World Cuisine, not in the least parochial.
Today I found it in another concept by Chef Michael Harrison. It was a dish in testing for my client Allium Food and Wine’s Autumn-Winter menu. Mike has yet again hit on a clever juxtaposition of global flavours and techniques but manages a deft lightness of touch.
It looks humble but this is a dish that takes 5 days to prepare. At first glance it looks like American BBQ brisket gussied up into fine dining. But drop your presumptions now.
Think wagyu brisket bacon made with a Korean cure common to short rib dishes. Then it was hot smoked briefly and transferred to an extremely low-and-slow 48 hours sous vide, and finally, glazed.
On the side, perfect house made Mittel European style pickled cucumber, mustard seeds, nasturtiums and an exquisite purée that is reminiscent of geung-chung, my favorite Chinese ginger spring onion condiment. I could eat a bucket of this umami emulsion.
There’ll be tweaks to the dish, but my mind is blown. This is my kind of eating! Exciting food normally found in the city, being served in inner fringe Malvern.
The website for Allium Food and Wine is now live, the name will change to that from Llivingroom next week.